We often talk of our ‘new wave’ food and restaurant scene as being world class. But I do sometimes wonder to what extent critics play a role in this. Whether it be self-publicised ‘experts’ on social media or the so-called mainstream experts (many of whom, apart from John Lethlean from The Australian and Terry Durack from the Sydney Morning Herald, have dubious qualifications as restaurant reviewers, to say the least).
Don’t take me the wrong way. We do have some amazing restaurants serving some pretty amazing food – restaurants such as Quay, Attica and Brae. But these are establishments you would only visit on special occasions, once a year type places. Yet, it seems that there are large numbers of restaurants following their lead, serving similar over the top fancy pants dining experiences (and, may I say, mind blowing prices to boot) – Attica $295 per person for food only.
I don’t know about you, but I don’t actually want to eat 18 courses – no matter how wonderful they supposedly are. And, without putting the boot into the best of the best, to me, the next echelon is where media and the Emperor’s Clothes syndrome comes in. I feel that customers and reviewers alike are often browbeaten into raving about restaurants – some of which are just plain and simply a drag. Places where numbing plates of food (great to photograph, of course) just keep arriving.
I say bring back some of those good old fashioned middle of the road numbers. Places where the Pepper Steak or Coq au Vin aren’t half bad (and cooked correctly) and there’s usually a Tarte or Souffle to finish. Actually, I’m being a bit simplistic, because our current chefs are better than that. But am I the only one who feels that, in the search to be the world’s best, our chefs and restaurateurs are getting too carried away and just plain and simply trying too hard? I was reminded of this by an article in the paper, which was admittedly plugging the new 2018 “Good Food Guide”, speaking of a couple of 3 Hat establishments in the inaugural 1980 version. I was instantly reminded of a tender, succulent dish of goose with fresh cherries at Two Faces (and a perfectly pink rack of lamb with a fresh herb crust, which had fresh peas and double peeled broad beans alongside – also perfectly cooked – and a side of a properly made, dare I call it gravy, perfumed with fresh mint = bloody marvellous and, in fact, what has happened to the good old rack of lamb?). And, was there a soufflé to follow? You betcha! And, I didn’t need to mortgage the house to eat and drink there.
Talking to mates about such experiences, it’s interesting to hear their comments. Most are, or have been, involved in the food or booze industries in one form or other. And, to be fair, most are of my generation, but their overall comments appear to reflect mine. And, they are as follows – yes, they do appreciate how much our food and wine scene has progressed in the last 20 years, but they also feel that our chefs and restaurateurs are getting bogged down with million dollar fit-outs, over the top fancy pants food, long winded ego driven degustation menus and, overall, have forgotten that their job is to feed people by giving them something that just bloody tastes good. They have, in fact, driven a huge number of the customers into cafes, which is fine as long as that is your want. But, it’s not mine – I want a good old fashioned middle of the road restaurant that takes bookings, the tables are not crowded together, the staff are hospitable and where my rack of lamb is perfectly pink, the fish is spotlessly fresh, the vegies are plentiful and on the plate – not separate at $10 plus a serve – the beef is not some silly new breed and aged for 10 years, there is always something moorish (and free) with the coffee, and the waiter is not hovering at the end of the table with the bill hoping to turn the table over. Now, that’s not too much to ask for, is it?
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RACK OF LAMB WITH A HERB CRUST & AN OLD FASHIONED MINT SAUCE (serves 4)
Make the mint sauce by combining a good handful of finely chopped mint leaves with 2 tbsp white sugar, 6 tbsp malt vinegar and 6 tbsp boiling water. Whisk well to dissolve the sugar and set aside for 1 hour to develop flavours.
For the herb crust, combine 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs with 3 tbsp chopped parsley, 1 crushed garlic clove, 1 tspn finely grated lemon zest and 25 gm soft butter.
Then season 4 well-trimmed lamb racks, brush the meat with a little Dijon mustard and firmly press into the crumb mixture. Cook in a 220°C fan forced oven for about 12-15 mins (for pink). Remove and rest for a few minutes.
Serve as is, or cut into cutlets, with buttered baby boiled potatoes, minted peas and the mint sauce.
http://www.hueyskitchen.com.au/
Click here to go to Hueys Youtube channel
Who Is Iain “Huey” Hewitson
Born 4 October 1948 (age 69)
Otaki, New Zealand
Culinary career
Iain “Huey” Hewitson (born 4 October 1948 in Otaki), is a New Zealand-born chef, restaurateur, author, and television personality who moved to Australia in 1972.[1] He is best known for his television involvement with Network Ten. He was also the face of supermarket chain BI-LO.
image for illustration only.Photo by https://www.cookinglight.com